The entryway lift section has been staring at me for months as I pondered how to finish it. Today, I decided to make it happen. I took a trip down to Lowes looking for parts to make a latch to keep the lift section up when the trains aren’t running. I remember some old doors had long steel rods to keep them open. Well, you can’t find that kind of hardware at a big box store. I decided to go a slightly different way using an aluminum bar, an eye bolt and right angle brace for a hinge point. The whole deal was about $7.00.
So after the replacement of cabinet hinges and reworking of the top deck of the lift section, this is what I started with this afternoon. I intend to insert some 1″ thick styrene foam board in the tray as a base for scenery. I next fitted a 1/4″ thick poplar plank across the gap to provide a temporary bridge until the final one get built.
I looked at the hinged end closely and noticed that when the rail is installed it might bind with the benchwork. I removed the bridge and got out the Dremel tool and dug a small pit for the rails to fit into.
I will add a small blog on what this looks like with the rails installed. It will show that the pit eliminates the possibility of bend the rails if the bridge is pushed to far back.
The latch is made from an aluminum bar that runs from a wall bracket to an eye bolt on the bridge. It took me about 15 minutes to fabricate the bar.
The wall bracket is a simple corner brace attached to a wall stud. I used a steel bolt and some hardware that was in my workshop.
The bridge end is an eye bolt. The latch bar has a notch cut in it. I will go back and increase the depth of the notch.
The docking end of the lift assembly was changed by adding small blocks to guide the bridge into place. I have to add some filler to the vertical surface to close the gap. on this end
From this point, I will get back to building roadbed and spiking rails to extend the line down the west wall.