MODELING: Muncie & Western Boxcar Build II

Construction is complete.  I have started painting the model with a primer and then a finish coat of yellow.   As most of you know, yellow paints do provide good coverage and require multiple coats.   Modern paints lack the opacity of paints of 50 years ago.  Little things like lead and cadmium are not allowed any more.

1275271452-m-1I found this photo online with Google the other week.  It shows a paint that is more orange than yellow.  Most pictures that I have seen of Mather cars show a more yellow color than this but the film show artifacts of color shift.  This is the best shot so far.  I did a test spray of Model Masters Insignia Yellow which turned green due to the gray primer.  Now I will try to darken the yellow and give it another shot.   I have used Model Masters acrylic paint before and like how it applies.   I do mix a little of the Tamiya Airbrush reducer to the paint.

MW underside

A quick review of the completed car starts with the underframe. The car I am modeling is #1287 in the late 1940s with a K brake system.  I used the San Juan K brake since is a larger size found on standard gauge freight cars.  The Andrews trucks are Protocraft as are the couplers.

MW Mather roof

Here is the completed Mather patented roof design.  The running board supports fit in the channels.

MW weight

The car has an added a sheet of lead to bring the car weight to 16 oz.   You will notice the lead sheet is captured with styrene strips and well as CA on the underside.  You don’t want the slug rolling around loose at some time in the future.

MW roof insidemw b end

Once the weight is installed, I added an interior support for the Mather roof.  The hand brake is a Klasing horizontal style.  Protocraft imported a handful of these castings that were used on their recent GN double sheathed boxcar import.

mw side

The next view of the car will be in paint and hopefully decals.

Happy Trails,

Gene

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6 thoughts on “MODELING: Muncie & Western Boxcar Build II

  1. Gene, I have always used a flat white primer under all of the partially transparent paints such as yellow, gloss white, orange and even gloss red. Even light gray is not sufficient to get the intended color. Flat white primer.

  2. Hi Gene. I’ve just started following you so not sure if this has been asked before. Will you share how you drill for all those rivets? How you deep them straight, in line…any broken bits? Thanks

    • DeLonce
      Welcome to my blog. I start by drawing a pencil line where the rivets or bolts are to be installed. Now mark the individual location on the line. In the case of this model, I had to use photos to determine location. I use a fine scribe to impress a small indentation and then drill the hole. I’ll update my blog with more on the technique.
      Gene

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