MODELING: Rio Grande Auto Car Build 12.0

The construction part of the build is done.  I added the last few pieces  last night. Today I got the airbrush out and shot a primer/sealer.  The gray color is an important step in finishing the model.  The primer provides what painters refer to as the witness coat.  It shows off all of the mistakes.  And I found a few problems that will get some attention prior to the color application. With any complicated scratchbuilding project, it ends up taking much longer than planned. Late in the build I struggle with finishing the last details. In the past, I would rush the completion and cut corners.  Sadly, I would not be happy with the end results.

There are a few details that I want to point out to you.  The first is the running board supports.  I made my from a strip of .020″ x .040″ and two short pieces of .015″ x .020″. The support is 18″ long with two short pieces on the end.  This will straddle the curved surface of the radial roof.   The running board is a lamination of HO 2″ x 10″ strip and .005″ material.  The prototype running board is 1.25″ thick so the lamination creates the proper thickness.   I drill and insert Tichy .020″ rivets to simulate carriage bolts used to attach the running boards.

You will notice the running board is attached to the roof side with a tab that features a bolt detail.

The picture below is of the primed underframe.

If you look closely you will see a few dings that need some filler before finishing.

I decided to add some dunnage to the car interior just to provide some interest.

Back to do some touchup and the final color.  Next time I will show the car with some color.

Thanks for stopping by.

 

 

 

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8 thoughts on “MODELING: Rio Grande Auto Car Build 12.0

      • Didn’t you make the end patterns for the SP B-50-18 that you built? I’m about to build some more cars in 1:22.6 scale and have been thinking about different methods to use in developing the stamped metal effect for Dreadnought ends. You may recall a photo I posted on Facebook of the B-50-18 that I built. For that car I built a pattern in brass over which I laid sheets of plastic and heated until the plastic conformed to the shape of the pattern. It worked, but it was a rather fiddly process so I’m seeking another method.

      • Warren
        The B-50-18 is a stock Intermountain kit. The end was tooled as part of the body. I have not attempted doing a Dreadnaught end from scratch. One possible approach for your scale is to go on Shapeway and search for boxcar end. I think there are designed parts that could be printed in your scale. You will need to contact the designer and see if he is willing to upscale the part.

      • Thank you for your reply. I am actually working on a T-section truck frame using SolidWorks at this very moment. Learning as I go, so it may be a while before my skill level is great enough to tackle the complexity of the Dreadnought. Meanwhile, I will check out the Shapeway catalog. Thanks again.

      • Warren
        The Dreadnaught rib shape has to be one of the more challenging to draw. It took a friend weeks to master it.

        Gene

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