The next step is to add the end platforms to the basic frame. I started by fabricating plates that fit under the platform and tie the frame to the end sill. I used .020″ styrene to make the plate. Each plate had four holes in the plate to allow for drainage (my guess). The plate is attached to the frame with large bolts. Look at the picture of the former NP 1220 below to see the plate.
The plate sits flush with the bottom of the frame. You will have to notch out the end beam. The bottom of the end sheathing needs to be notched out to accept the plate.
NP 24′ cabooses (or is that cabeese) used steel and wood end beams. It is hard to tell for me. I have to consult my caboose guru Rick Leach to figure it out. He is a fountain of knowledge on many NP subjects. There were also several configurations of railings and ladders used. I really need to pick the prototype you are modeling.
This picture was taken in Sumas of a car with the older style ladder and railing. The height of the end railing was a hazard to trainmen if the slack was taken out suddenly.
The car I am building had the improved end railings. I was fortunate to get my hands on a set of etched brass parts for the end railings. The parts are very delicate but do save a ton of time fabricating parts. Unfortunately, the master for the art was lost in a fire at the etcher’s plant.
The first step to assembly of the brass parts was to make an assembly aid
composed of a copy of the end drawing taped to a piece of wood. I added some styrene blocks to the drawing using CA adhesive. I loaded the right vertical post in the jig.
I had a couple of tricky etched pieces to bend. My tool of choice is a 4″ hold and fold tool. This is a handy tool for bending along the length of a seam. The horizontal railing top has a jog etched in one surface. It is intended to be bent into an “S” curve.
The tool does a nice job keep the straight edge on the flange.
The process for assemble proceeded right to left. The top railing is the last piece to add.
The ladder is next to be built. The left stile is held in place with styrene blocks. The rungs are cut from .015″ phos bronze. I cut the rungs extra long to use hem as a site gauge. I can see if they are all parallel before soldering the joints. The jig ends up looking pretty messy but the results are what I am interested in.
I know it is a mess but the paper is a throwaway. Once you are happy with the assembly, you can start trimming the wire and cleaning up the joints. I use lacquer thinner to do get the flux off the brass.
The picture below shows what it looks like with some cleanup. I still have some pins to shorten and a few bolt heads to add.
Next time, I will start the underframe and steps. Rick Leach took this shot of Ken Johnson’s restored caboose.